The secret is out: Victoria has a bold new look.

OUT GO the supermodel Angels, in comes the VS Collective, a group of women recognised for their accomplishments and opinions.

The hope is they will help Victoria’s Secret reconnect with shoppers who’ve grown tired of the brand’s narrow standards of beauty. It’s a brave move, but will it sell lingerie? As Victoria’s Secret prepares for life as a standalone company spun off from parent L Brands Inc, that is the $5 billion question.

The seven-strong Collective include: US soccer star Megan Rapinoe, plus-sized model Paloma Elsesser, transgender actress Valentina Sampaio, Indian actress Priyanka Chopra Jonas, 17-year-old world champion skier Eileen Gu, and model and former child refugee Adut Akech. The group will take part in a podcast hosted by the oldest member, Amanda de Cadenet, advise the company, and feature in its advertising.

With their multi-faceted identities and activist campaigns, the VS Collective shatters the onedimensional view of beauty offered by the Angels. The about-turn sends a powerful message that the old Victoria’s Secret is no more.

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A break from the past was desperately needed. Amid the #MeToo era, the company looked increasingly male-dominated and out of touch. Former L Brands CEO Leslie Wexner’s association with Jeffery Epstein only hurt the brand further.

SHIFTING TRENDS

Meanwhile, the company has also been running up against fashion trends. Underwired bras are being replaced by less structured bralettes, and the rise of athleisure is making sports bras less about the gym and more about the everyday. Moreover, new competitors like ThirdLove and CUUP have sprung up to meet shifting consumer needs. Brands like Rihanna’s Savage X Fenty lingerie line still feel more authentically inclusive.

The pop star transformed the beauty industry with 40 (now 50) different shades of foundation; she did the same for undergarments with a bold colour palette to flatter every skin tone and size. And American Eagle Outfitters Inc’s Aerie is already seen as a youngerfocused, more approachable retailer. Its AerieReal campaign did away with airbrushing photos back in 2014.

If Victoria’s Secret is going to win women over, it must overcome a credibility gap. Fortunately, there’s a good sign that female empowerment runs in the boardroom too: Six non-executive directors, including the chair, are women.

DEMANDS OF THE TRADE

But such a sweeping makeover risks looking like a cynical marketing ploy. And it also won’t be easy getting rid of the sexpot image that the retailer peddled for so long. The approach is also a huge gamble. Despite all its struggles, Victoria’s Secret still generated sales of more than $5 billion in 2020.

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Stores and products also need to be in line with the new Victoria. It’s worth remembering that lingerie is one of the most technically complex areas of fashion — with some bras having up to 30 component parts — so the overhaul won’t be instantaneous.

And the retailer will launch collections with some of its fresh faces. This should help bridge the divide between its new image and what’s on the shelves.

So far, investors are giving the makeover the benefit of the doubt, but the real risk is that shoppers won’t be as enthusiastic. The retailer is pivoting because customers have said they want a different version of what’s beautiful. But what consumers say, and what they buy, can be two different things.

THE OTHER CHEEK

Victoria’s Secret Angels were once glamorous, escapist and aspirational. The company must be mindful of this, as it prepares to feature the Collective in its campaigns. It describes its ambassadors as an “ever-growing group”, so new faces will likely be added over time. And the retailer will also continue to work with women who aren’t part of the cadre. That offers some leeway in case the current seven don’t chime with consumers.

The 4 female speakers from ‘The Collective’ emphasize on equitable opportunities and challenges for women at the workplace…

Ultimately, the Angels had to fall to earth. But for Victoria’s Secret to truly let go of the past, its new Collective must find its wings.

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